It’s late on a Wednesday afternoon in October and the staff at Gourmand Market is busy preparing the mezzanine for the evening’s mahjong players.
Tables and chairs are moved to accommodate groups of four. Bartenders are making sure there are enough wine glasses on hand. Water, lemon wedges and freshly popped truffle popcorn are set up for self-service. No one will get out of their seats during the evening, however. They’ll be too focused on the game.
Mahjong, the tile game that originated in 19th-century China, has been played in the United States since the 1920s. It has deep roots in many Asian and Jewish communities.
But its popularity has exploded nationally in recent years. A mahjong scene in the 2018 movie “Crazy Rich Asians” raised awareness. During the pandemic, new players discovered mahjong, attracted to the community fostered by the game. The frequency
of mahjong events in San Francisco spiked nearly 150% between 2023 and 2024, the city’s main newspaper reported in September. Across North Carolina, several libraries and senior centers regularly host games.
In Charlotte’s SouthPark neighborhood, Gourmand Market has found the game to be a winning hand. Although the market and its restaurant and bar sit at one of the community’s busiest intersections, it’s tucked back off the road and not very visible from the street. People often don’t realize the market exists, says Boyd “Bo” Phillips, who opened the market in 2023.
Mahjong has proven to be an ideal pairing with Gourmand Markets’ customer count gaining 40% since it started offering lessons and events tied to the game at the beginning of the year. People who came for mahjong are now regulars who meet friends for drinks and swing by to grab ready-made meals or curated gift baskets. Upstairs space is often rented for mahjong parties and to host lessons for friends.
“I hadn’t heard of Gourmand before, but it quickly became synonymous with comfort, creativity, and culinary joy,” says Carla Hamilton, a vice president at Wells Fargo who took a lesson in January and now returns often.
“What started as a casual interest in mahjong turned into something much more,” Hamilton says. “I found myself surrounded by new friends, clinking glasses, immersed in strategy and laughter. The food is consistently delicious and beautifully crafted, and the drinks make every visit feel like a celebration.”
A CONVENIENCE STORE WITH FLAIR
Phillips’ goal was to create a “convenience store with flair.” She imagined “an upscale pit stop that has something to satiate many different needs.” She has always been a foodie with some of her earliest memories involving making her parents breakfast in bed during her pre-K years. She made “eggs in a hole,” which remains a favorite of hers today.
After graduating from Duke University, she studied food writing and graduated from culinary schools in New York and Italy. While living in Washington, D.C., and New York City, Phillips regularly visited the Dean & Deluca gourmet grocery store chain. When the company shuttered its U.S. stores in 2018-19, including those in Charlotte, Phillips saw an opportunity for a similar concept.
In addition to its kitchen and bar service, Gourmand Market sells prepared meals and sides for take out. There’s a butcher counter and coffee bar. The market also specializes in curated gift baskets and boxed office lunches.
The High Point native planned to open the market with her well-known father, Dave Phillips, a furniture company owner, philanthropist and civic leader. He was a former N.C. Secretary of Commerce and ambassador to Estonia. After he died of cancer in 2022, Phillips continued with their plans.
“My dad was so excited about my entrepreneurial spirit and the passion I have to jump in and take risks,” Phillips says. “He really wanted to do Gourmand with me. He wasn’t a foodie, but he wanted to do something fun and different to challenge him.”
BRAIN POWER
Jennifer Engel discovered the market when she started helping at informal sessions where experienced players meet to play and an instructor is available to offer advice. Engel is co-director of the Queen City Mahjong League, where teams play over eight weeks competing for prizes.
“It’s an intimate space, but you’re not on top of each other.” Engel says. “You’re able to have conversations and play the game the way it’s meant to be played.”
Jill Graham was among the first in Charlotte to offer formal mahjong lessons. She taught herself the game in early 2021. When people learned she could play the game, they asked for lessons. By early 2022, her classes with spots for 16 people had wait lists of 50 or more. The game has gained popularity ever since.
Graham believes the interest in mahjong will continue as people crave community, structure and take a break from their phones.
“Women are seeing how beautiful the game is, with the tiles and the mats and the cocktails and snacks people are serving,” Graham says. “It’s become the new book club.”
Another plus: studies show that mahjong helps prevent cognitive decline.
As more people learn to play, many welcome the chance to play outside of their homes and to meet other players, Graham says. “Some people don’t want to host. They want to get out of the house. Maybe get away from their husband and the kids.”
Phillips is leaning into the game. She’s expanded the market’s retail offerings to include mahjong tiles, mats and accessories. The market rents sets to those who aren’t ready to invest in tiles of their own.
She’s also curating a food and drink menu tailored toward players. Messy, handheld food that would leave the tiles greasy is a no-no.
“I want to provide not only a go-to mahjong environment, but a go-to eatery where you can find a cozy and welcoming environment that provides everything from soup to nuts,” she says. “Mahjong gives new customers a reason to walk in the door, and we are working to ensure they are delighted and keep coming back.” ■
National award-winning reporter and writer Kerry Singe has written about development for newspapers, magazines and websites since 2009.